Hedi Slimane's debut collection for Celine, Spring/Summer 2019, sent shockwaves through the fashion world. A stark departure from Phoebe Philo's minimalist aesthetic, Slimane's vision was a bold, rock-infused reimagining of the iconic French house, immediately sparking fervent debate and establishing a new era for the brand. This article delves into the key elements of the Celine SS19 collection, examining the runway looks, the accompanying lookbook, and the overall impact of Slimane's creative direction, drawing on resources like Vogue Runway's complete show coverage, and other relevant reviews and analyses.
Celine Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear: A Re-imagining of Parisian Chic
The Celine Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection, as showcased on Vogue Runway and countless other platforms, wasn't a subtle evolution; it was a radical transformation. Gone were the relaxed silhouettes and muted tones that had defined Celine under Philo. In their place emerged a sharply tailored, distinctly youthful aesthetic, heavily influenced by Slimane's signature style: lean, androgynous lines, a focus on sharp tailoring, and a distinct rock-and-roll sensibility. The collection felt like a deliberate rejection of the previous era, a clean break that prioritized a new, more youthful and rebellious customer.
The collection’s palette was a significant departure. While Philo’s Celine favored neutral tones and understated elegance, Slimane embraced a bolder spectrum. Deep blacks, rich browns, and vibrant pops of color appeared throughout, injecting a sense of energy and dynamism into the garments. This wasn't simply about color, but about a deliberate shift in mood and attitude. The color choices reflected a more assertive, confident spirit, a feeling that permeated the entire collection.
RUNWAY LOOKS: A Masterclass in Silhouette and Detail
The runway looks themselves were meticulously crafted, showcasing Slimane's mastery of silhouette and detail. The collection featured an array of sharply tailored jackets, both classic and contemporary. Blazers were structured and fitted, often paired with slim-fitting trousers or short, A-line skirts. The jackets themselves were not merely functional; they were statement pieces, with details like strong shoulders, bold lapels, and unexpected embellishments adding a touch of rebellious flair.
Many looks incorporated Slimane's signature skinny jeans, a staple of his previous work at Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. These jeans, often paired with heeled boots or platform shoes, created a leg-lengthening effect and contributed to the overall lean and androgynous aesthetic. The combination of slim-fitting bottoms and structured tops created a sense of balance and proportion, emphasizing the wearer's figure without being overtly revealing.
The collection also featured a range of dresses, ranging from simple, body-con styles to more elaborate designs with intricate detailing. These dresses often incorporated elements of rock-and-roll aesthetics, such as leather accents, metallic hardware, and strategically placed cutouts. These details added a layer of complexity and visual interest, preventing the collection from feeling overly monotonous.
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